To me there is nothing worse than being at work and I know
the surf is firing.
Like today, motoring out the driveway on my way to work I quickly
glance at the surf. It’s glassy, no wind and in the 3–4 ft range, absolutely
perfect conditions for the lagoon mouth.
My first re-action is to ponder the idea of phoning in sick, what excuse
can I give??? But then I remember it's Friday,
there are deadlines and other gremlins that need attention at work. So not
turning up for work is out of the question.
So of course, the whole time while I’m driving into work I’m
thinking about the surf and that got me onto the relationship between working
and surfing. As a surfer we all want to get into the water on a day like today.
Regardless of your level of surfing - whether you are a Kelly Slater, an
underground charger or just a weekend warrior like me, all you want to do is
get your board and get out there.
But for many of us working is the only (legal) way to get
the money needed to fund our surfing lifestyle. Not that surfing as a lifestyle
is expensive; it’s all the other things in our modern society that go with
living that is draining our precious funds on a daily, weekly, monthly and
annual basis. I don’t want to go into all the various things like food, housing,
clothing, petrol etc. That all adds up -
but the fact of the matter is we need these things to live / function / survive
and without it we won’t be able to surf. Not in the long term anyway.
The equation for me is simply no work = no surfing
So, working is the only way to buy new boards, wetsuits or even
just a bar of wax. Then the next thought though my salt ridden brain is simply “What
if I can get a job in the surf industry?” Will that be a win win situation for
me??
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